Mona Bismarck Historic Garments
The above image of Mona Bismarck was painted by Salvador Dali (Spanish 1904-1989) in 1943 and is from the catalog for the Kentucky Countess exhibition in 1997 at the University of Kentucky Art Museum. The description of each garment, located on the right, was copied from the exhibit labels.
As of fall 2013 Merchandising, Apparel, & Textiles (MAT) is one major within the Department of Retail and Tourism Management.
Introduction
Mona Bismarck (1897-1983) was a Kentucky native and the subject of the exhibition, Kentucky Countess: Mona Bismarck in Art & Fashion in 1997. Mona was voted best-dressed woman in the world several times in the 1930s and '40s as noted by Annette Tapert and Diana Edkins in their book The Power of Style: The women who defined the art of living well (1994). The Betty D. Eastin collection acquired Mona's garments from the Smithsonian Institution in 1979. These garments were gifted to the Eastin collection because of Mona's Kentucky roots.
Evening Dress
Fabric: Apricot and Silver lame
Designer: Balenciaga. Winter 1966
Worn by: Mona Williams Bismarck
Description: In 1966, Vogue christened Balenciaga’s Winter line as “silver-in-the-pink” for his designs featuring an unusual metallic lame. Shiny, reflective fabrics had become increasingly popular with designers and style-savvy customers during the 1960s as a result of worldwide preoccupation in the space walks - and space suits - of John Glenn and his fellow astronauts.
University of Kentucky Betty D Eastin Historical Costume Collection
Department of Retailing and Tourism Management
Gift of the Smithsonian Institution 79.9.8
Cocktail Ensemble
Fabric: Black silk gazar dress and matching cape with gold, pink and mother-of-pearl paillettes and glass appliqués
Designer: Balenciaga. Winter 4967
Worn by: Mona Williams Bismarck
Description: Balenciaga was known for his manipulation of proportion, such as in this ensemble. The lavish concentration of iridescent mother-of-pearl paillettes, gold spheres and hearts, pink half moons, and glass crystals sewn at the hem and on the matching cape directs the viewer’s eye toward the face and legs and away from the midriff to create the illusion of an elongated lithe body.
University of Kentucky Betty D Eastin Historical Costume Collection
Department of Retailing and Tourism Management
Gift of the Smithsonian Institution 79.9.17a
Tunic With Matching Skirt
Fabric: Yellow Orange linen
Designer: Balenciaga. Spring 1963
Worn by: Mona Williams Bismarck
Description: In 1955, Balenciaga introduced a linen tunic dress that was notable for his superlative cut and construction. His masterful design proved so influential, that it has been elaborated on by almost every major designer in French couture, including, Balenciaga himself in subsequent seasons. The “skimmed-front loose-in-back” design complements the less than svelte by suggesting a willowy body beneath the dress. In addition to being flattering, the tunic set was also flexible, adapting to a variety of activities merely by switching accessories. The matching gloves and hat worn to lunch or shopping were easily exchanged for jewels and a fur neck wrap when worn for evening cocktails.
University of Kentucky Betty D Eastin Historical Costume Collection
Department of Retailing and Tourism Management
Gift of the Smithsonian Institution 79.9.10
Double-Breasted Suit
Fabric: Cream wool with golden-plated buttons
Designer: Balenciaga. Spring 1964
Worn by: Mona Williams Bismarck
Description: First Lady Jacquelyn Kennedy wielded tremendous influence throughout American popular culture from art to etiquette. Her fashions too inspired countless imitators, including her boxy day suit and pillbox hat by the American designer Halston. Balenciaga’s design for a “boxy suit” pre-dates Halston’s, but the enduring popularity of the style can be ascribed to the First Lady. The version on view, dating to Balenciaga’s spring 1964 line has princess seams to create the illusion of a slim, elongated body, an effect that would have been enhanced by the shortened, bracelet-length sleeves.
University of Kentucky Betty D Eastin Historical Costume Collection
Department of Retailing and Tourism Management
Gift of the Smithsonian Institution 79.9.9a
